Salem's oldest and finest landscape construction professionals. Specializing in landscape design and installation, hardscapes, maintenance, sprinkler installation and repair, tree pruning, tree moving, and tree appraisals.
Salem's oldest and finest landscape construction professionals. Specializing in landscape design and installation, hardscapes, maintenance, sprinkler installation and repair, tree pruning, tree moving, and tree appraisals.
As large tree relocating specialists of more than 40 years the most common reasons we hear include privacy, noise reduction, more or less shade, or for an increase property aesthetics. Sometimes an ornamental tree can just outgrow its space and the beauty justifies the move. Did one of your kids plant an acorn in the backyard and you want to take the 6’ tree with you to a new home? Sentimental value isn’t uncommon. Would cutting down large tree to make space for your new office complex be a PR nightmare? Nike had us move a few trees for that reason many years ago.
A few other reasons to relocate a tree:
Your insurance agent might not care for how far a tree is leaning over your house.
It’s possible the city would hold you responsible if someone tripped over that elevated sidewalk where the roots are exerting their dominance.
A developer may want to move a handful of trees on site and include them in the site plan rather than negatively impact the environment by cutting them down.
It looked good when the course was installed. Now it’s just in the way and no one can even get par on that hole.
A large oak is inconveniently placed where the city just approved a street expansion and the park next door is looking like a better home.
You could cut down every other tree in your double density fruit production orchard but then it’ll be 5-10 years before you recover the lost production. You may want to consider moving them to an adjacent field instead so you lose nothing.
Maybe you just sold your larger home and property and want to carry the sentimental trees with you to your downsized space.
Why wait 20 years for a fully matured tree?
Some trees are illegal to cut down.
There are two common methods. The first is a heavy duty machine called a hydraulic tree spade which will actually excavate the tree along with the root ball. We have multiple spade sizes and we can excavate trees from seedlings to 40’ tall and up to a 9”-10” trunk diameter measured 6” above ground. Some trees move better than others and the variants involved in tree survival generally come down to species of tree and amount of rootball excavated.
Any tree requiring a rootball larger than the capabilities of our largest spade involves hand digging around the rootball and lifting using a combination of trucks, cranes, rollers, metal tracks, and a variety of other tools depending on site conditions. For example maybe you’re intent on finding that 70’ tall deodar cedar a new home. In that case we would likely construct a custom engineered cradle for the root ball while heavy cranes lift and transport it to the desired location. Where canopy structure prevents the spade access without having to drastically trim or remove important structural branching, hand digging is also a suitable method. However each tree is different and our experience and site conditions inform best methods.
With either method there are a few conditions necessary to ensure the trees survival:
Proper aftercare and maintenance.
Care and handling during transplant process.
A large enough root ball and enough feeder roots to suck up nutrients in the new location.
Some larger trees require guying to protect tree until new root system is established.
In this video you will see one of our large tree spades moving a 100 year old Japanese maple so the city of Eugene could expand the road.
Every customer’s demands are different as is every job site and the distance traveled from pickup to drop off. You can have the same tree and the same machine but two different customers and two different prices. There are so many variables involved it really is a case by case basis.
But we’ll take one of our more recent bids (8/20/20) as an example. This client had a 7” diameter oak, a small pine, and a smaller chestnut he wanted moved within a mile of the pickup location. All three trees would require our 80” spade, they were relatively easy to dig up and our bid was $2,000. That does not mean that 2 of those trees would only be 2/3 the price. Now if one or more of the trees required a hand dig and a custom constructed cradle for the rootball the price would likely have been much more.
For a more in depth look at pricing refer to this article.
Soil condition and type is a primary determinant to how well the tree will transplant. In general a tree growing in well drained and tightly fitted soils will transplant better than the same tree growing in sandy or rocky soils where the rootball could crumble and expose the roots to breakage. Is the tree moving from a low sunlight area to a highly lit area? That could impact the health of the tree and require more aftercare. A tree is a living organism with definite needs and there are no guarantees even under ideal conditions that a tree will survive being uprooted and transplanted elsewhere.
The only assurance we can offer is following best arborcare guidelines (compiled by professionals over many generations) and a little on the job intuition. That said, we have relocated thousands and thousands of trees over the last five decades and our (approximate) 98% success rate will hopefully offer some assurances. After our job is done it’s up to you to provide appropriate aftercare.
For a more detailed answer to this question, refer to this blog post.
Root pruning is a common and at times necessary practice, especially when time is not a limiting factor. Pruning upwards of 6 months to 2 years prior to the actual move provides the tree the opportunity to prepare for the move by growing new feeder roots -which are responsible for absorbing most of the water and nutrients- within the narrow limits of the future rootball to be transported and to help mitigate transplant shock. This isn’t always necessary which is why its helpful to have certified arborists (like us) help you with that decision. Root pruning methods vary and multiple visits may be necessary.
Of course, you will also need a new location in mind before we get started and underground utilities must be located. Last thing we want is to cut someone’s sewer line. But we’ll handle that when you give us the go ahead.
We try not to cut branches unnecessarily however some branches will need to be trimmed in order for the spade to fit around the tree. We take every precaution to retain as many branches as possible and to handle the tree with care but there is always a possibility that during the transplanting process some limbs may be damaged.
We recommend all transplanted trees be staked or guyed until the new roots can stabilize the tree. This takes approximately 2 years. During that 2 years we recommend adjusting wires every 3-4 months to prevent damage to the tree. Smaller trees may not need to be guyed or staked as the weight of soil within the rootball may be sufficient to keep it in place or the site location protect it from strong winds. However there is no method to guarantee that a wind of sufficient strength will prevent the tree from blowing over during a windstorm. After all, some winds tear fully matured and established trees out of the ground all the time.
General horticultural practices suggest transplanting a tree when it is dormant. So late fall to early spring. When they’re dormant they’ve most likely drawn enough sugars, minerals, and water into the trunk and branches to survive in a new location. In the spring it utilizes that stored energy along with what it can draw from its root system to put out new leaves and feed the tree. Transplanting during a growth phase reduces that supply, increases the likelihood of transplant shock, and diminishes its ability to adapt to the new location. However, if the tree had any root pruning within the previous year or so it would dramatically increase the likelihood of survival as the new feeder roots will have sprouted within the limits of the previous spade cuts. There are exceptions to this rule. Frozen soil and root development do not mix well. The middle of winter while snow or frost is on the ground for days or weeks on end are not ideal conditions not matter how resilient the tree. We have transplanted year round however and we have found that a larger rootball in less than ideal conditions is the best determinant to the trees survival.
First, consider the size of the tree at full maturity. Are there any power lines or underground utilities you need to avoid? Is your neighbor going to cause a fuss if the branches hang over their property? 20 years down the road will the roots break up your driveway and reduce the value of your home? Does it need a lot of sunlight? Do you want to shade a certain part of your yard? Do you want to screen an objectionable view? For example, one customer wanted to screen the 24/7 security light on their neighbor’s home.
Will the elevation or slope or retaining walls on the property increase the difficulty of transplanting? The future size of the tree may determine how far you want to keep it from your house. Will there be any future structures (patios, fences, decks, gazebo, etc)? Or do you want to plant it closer to your home so it enhances the desired effect? Are there any other trees close by that would impede the trees growth in the new location? Do you want to shade or screen your view looking out? Or shade or screen from looking in? If your desired effect isn’t met by one tree or it will take many years to acquire the effect, consider transplanting more than one tree. Will the new location ad difficulty to proper care and maintenance? These are just a few of the many factors that determine a good location. For best results consult us.
We do not guarantee the survival of relocated trees that we do not provide. But we still employ the same expertise and care as any other tree we move so your tree has the same chances of survival.
Our spades are truck mounted which means we have to drive to the pickup and drop-off location. We will typically lay down matting, decking, sheets of plywood, or whatever is necessary to minimize damage to curbs, sidewalks, sprinklers systems, grass, etc as needed.
No. We will fill any holes we dig.
Depends on the species of the tree, branch structure, rootball size, and the distance from where the tree is currently located to the destination. All of which involves an element of time. Each job site is different. Each tree is different. So we cannot offer a reliable estimate without considering all job parameters.
Our only limiting factor is the client’s budget.
With a spade, generally speaking, the softer woods (like palms, redwoods, and evergreens) with flexible canopies are the easiest to move with. The harder woods with rigid limbs like oak will require a little more tlc and trimming as will fruit producing trees like cherry or hazelnut. Nursery standards dictate that for every 1” of trunk diameter, a 9” diameter (+/-) rootball is required to give most trees the best chance of surviving a transplant. Obviously this varies based on time of year and species of tree. For example, a 4” diameter redwood requiring a smaller spade transplants easier and develops feeder roots faster than would a 4” cherry which would likely need a larger spade.
With the hand digging method there are multiple steps and machines involved and an arborist’s expertise and thousands of relocated trees on a resume makes the process a lot easier.
We are retail seller of trees. Just let us know what you need. Whatever we sell we warranty.
If we’re looking for a specific type of a tree for a customer way may be interested in buying yours.
Yes.